Happy New Year! |
Monday, 31 December 2012
Friday, 21 December 2012
Christmas Wishes
Tuesday, 4 December 2012
Baskets full of Goodies - A 2012 Review
We all know what a lousy gardening year it has been - but I was surprised, when I looked back at the photographs for the year, just how much veg was actually produced. The only things that didn't really do very well for me were the fruits and squashes. No raspberries, no apples or plums, only a few black and red currants. But on the whole it wasn't that bad.
END MARCH - Rainbow Chard, Leeks and Onion Greens |
MARCH - Curly Kale |
Friday, 30 November 2012
Hardy Herbs
considering that they are mostly Mediterranean in origin they do remarkably well.
thyme |
mint |
curly parsley |
parsley - gone to seed |
Last winter was too cold for my bay tree and it sadly died. But I bought some tiny replacements which are now doing well. If the weather forecasts a severe drop in temperature then I will take it into the greenhouse for protection.
bay |
rosemary |
Saturday, 24 November 2012
Saturday, 17 November 2012
Monday, 12 November 2012
Saturday, 3 November 2012
Alliums - The Next Generation
I don't know whether you remember but at the end of last year I mentioned that I had been experimenting with the Allium family here. Instead of digging leeks up when I wanted to use them I began just cutting them off at the base. And it worked. After cutting off the parent leek I then had at least another four cuts from each leek plant. The picture below is the same leeks this year.
So I would say that the experiment worked - I haven't had the bother of sowing, transplanting, growing on, planting out etc. so I am well-chuffed. My aim was to try and get as many vegetables as I could to become perennial and if it didn't work I had lost nothing. I tried it with a container of pickling onions, not for the onions but for the tops to cut and add to dishes instead of chives. That sort of worked too.
These are the original pickling onions, one or two rotted, but as you can see some have divided and are still shooting. I will bring this pot into the greenhouse now to save them from the harshness of the weather. It has worked on spring onions and the garlic as well. I have also tried it with the celery.
Instead of digging up the whole celery plant I cut the sticks when I needed them, eventually just leaving the base of the plant. I left this in the ground, and as you can see it has started pushing new sticks out. I have covered the row with a mesh cloche for protection, and if it survives the winter I should be able to have a continuous perennial supply.
Don't you just love it when a plan comes together.
So I would say that the experiment worked - I haven't had the bother of sowing, transplanting, growing on, planting out etc. so I am well-chuffed. My aim was to try and get as many vegetables as I could to become perennial and if it didn't work I had lost nothing. I tried it with a container of pickling onions, not for the onions but for the tops to cut and add to dishes instead of chives. That sort of worked too.
These are the original pickling onions, one or two rotted, but as you can see some have divided and are still shooting. I will bring this pot into the greenhouse now to save them from the harshness of the weather. It has worked on spring onions and the garlic as well. I have also tried it with the celery.
Instead of digging up the whole celery plant I cut the sticks when I needed them, eventually just leaving the base of the plant. I left this in the ground, and as you can see it has started pushing new sticks out. I have covered the row with a mesh cloche for protection, and if it survives the winter I should be able to have a continuous perennial supply.
Don't you just love it when a plan comes together.
Saturday, 27 October 2012
The First Real Frost of the Year
After a windy night,( the weather not me), I woke up to see heavy frost on the car windscreen signalling that winter is on the way. The temperature was only 1 deg. but it felt colder after the mildish weather we have been having. I ventured out to check on my sheep and see how the frost had affected the veg plot.
I gave Alf (pictured) and Ed some Sheep Mix which they love and they lick their bowls clean, but then hang about wondering if I will give them some kale leaves. This morning I didn't as they were frosted.
The leeks that have gone to seed are putting on a lovely display
Although they look wonderful like this, it does mean they are mostly inedible due to the hard core that forms down the centre of the leek.
The last courgette plant is a gonner now, the colder weather has seen to that. Now that it has finished I can compost it and start to weed the area before I mulch it. Funnily enough the Nasturtiums have survived the frost, they are still manfully flowering, as are the Marigolds.
This year my raspberry crop has been zilch, and guess what, it is nearly winter and they have suddenly decided to produce fruit. Contrary or what?
It's been a funny old year. Hoping for better next year - what say you?
I gave Alf (pictured) and Ed some Sheep Mix which they love and they lick their bowls clean, but then hang about wondering if I will give them some kale leaves. This morning I didn't as they were frosted.
The leeks that have gone to seed are putting on a lovely display
Although they look wonderful like this, it does mean they are mostly inedible due to the hard core that forms down the centre of the leek.
The last courgette plant is a gonner now, the colder weather has seen to that. Now that it has finished I can compost it and start to weed the area before I mulch it. Funnily enough the Nasturtiums have survived the frost, they are still manfully flowering, as are the Marigolds.
This year my raspberry crop has been zilch, and guess what, it is nearly winter and they have suddenly decided to produce fruit. Contrary or what?
It's been a funny old year. Hoping for better next year - what say you?
Sunday, 21 October 2012
The Winter Garden - Parsnips
Yesterday I spent a pleasant couple of hours at the veg plot, taking down the sweet pea nets, dismantling the runner bean supports and digging up a few parsnips for Sunday lunch.
I sowed them way back in March on one of the rare days when it didn't rain. I didn't hold out much hope for them, but, surprisingly, they thrived. Two rows is plenty for our household if they all germinate - and they did. But, on digging up a few from each row, I was surprised at the difference between them.
One row were perfect, well, almost perfect, specimens - they hadn't quite filled out all the way down the root - a bit top heavy you could say - but they were a really good size.
I'm not quite sure what variety they are, as I had picked up several packets of different varieties, forgetting that I had already bought some - so I mixed them all together - the thinking being that if some didn't do well, others would.
The other row was a disaster. Squat, multi-pronged roots, that were hardly useable. Not sure what went wrong there - perhaps they hit a hard patch where I hadn't loosened the soil enough. Anyway, the other good row will see us through the winter. I will gradually dig the whole row up and keep them stored layered in dry earth in a very large plant pot. They keep very well this way as long as they aren't washed beforehand.
Here's what Nigel Slater has to say about parsnips:-
The soil-encrusted root, gnarled like the bark of an old tree, hides a creamy flesh that is both earthy and sweet. Snapped in half, it smells of freshly dug ground. Roasted in butter, it smells of warm heather honey. I value the parsnip for its gentle sweetness, its happy marriage with the crusted edges of a piece of roast beef, and the velvety soup you can make even from its woody core. Steamed, mashed and softened to a puree with warm cream, the frugal root becomes a deceptively luxurious accompaniment to roast lamb. Baked in a slow oven with cream and the milder spices - cumin, nutmeg, and a few specks of mace - the parsnip makes a sensual supper on a day when you are expecting someone to arrive home cold and sodden.
I sowed them way back in March on one of the rare days when it didn't rain. I didn't hold out much hope for them, but, surprisingly, they thrived. Two rows is plenty for our household if they all germinate - and they did. But, on digging up a few from each row, I was surprised at the difference between them.
One row were perfect, well, almost perfect, specimens - they hadn't quite filled out all the way down the root - a bit top heavy you could say - but they were a really good size.
I'm not quite sure what variety they are, as I had picked up several packets of different varieties, forgetting that I had already bought some - so I mixed them all together - the thinking being that if some didn't do well, others would.
The other row was a disaster. Squat, multi-pronged roots, that were hardly useable. Not sure what went wrong there - perhaps they hit a hard patch where I hadn't loosened the soil enough. Anyway, the other good row will see us through the winter. I will gradually dig the whole row up and keep them stored layered in dry earth in a very large plant pot. They keep very well this way as long as they aren't washed beforehand.
Here's what Nigel Slater has to say about parsnips:-
The soil-encrusted root, gnarled like the bark of an old tree, hides a creamy flesh that is both earthy and sweet. Snapped in half, it smells of freshly dug ground. Roasted in butter, it smells of warm heather honey. I value the parsnip for its gentle sweetness, its happy marriage with the crusted edges of a piece of roast beef, and the velvety soup you can make even from its woody core. Steamed, mashed and softened to a puree with warm cream, the frugal root becomes a deceptively luxurious accompaniment to roast lamb. Baked in a slow oven with cream and the milder spices - cumin, nutmeg, and a few specks of mace - the parsnip makes a sensual supper on a day when you are expecting someone to arrive home cold and sodden.
Tuesday, 16 October 2012
Garlic Planting Time
I didn't have much success with garlic this year - they rotted in the ground or disapeared altogether. So I'm just wondering whether I shall bother with them again - but if I do - now is the time to be planting them.
Garlic is widely used around the world for its pungent flavor as a seasoning or condiment.
The garlic plant's bulb is the most commonly used part of the plant. With the exception of the single clove types, garlic bulbs are normally divided into numerous fleshy sections called cloves. Garlic cloves are used for consumption (raw or cooked) or for medicinal purposes. They have a characteristic pungent, spicy flavor that mellows and sweetens considerably with cooking.
Other parts of the garlic plant are also edible. The leaves and flowers (bulbils) on the head (spathe) are sometimes eaten. They are milder in flavor than the bulbs, and are most often consumed while immature and still tender. Immature garlic is sometimes pulled, rather like a scallion, and sold as "green garlic". When green garlic is allowed to grow past the "scallion" stage, but not permitted to fully mature, it may produce a garlic "round", a bulb like a boiling onion, but not separated into cloves like a mature bulb. Additionally, the immature flower stalks (scapes) of the hardneck and elephant types are sometimes marketed for uses similar to asparagus in stir-fries.
Inedible or rarely eaten parts of the garlic plant include the "skin" and root cluster. The papery, protective layers of "skin" over various parts of the plant are generally discarded during preparation for most culinary uses, though in Korea immature whole heads are sometimes prepared with the tender skins intact. The root cluster attached to the basal plate of the bulb is the only part not typically considered palatable in any form.
Garlic is a fundamental component in many or most dishes of various regions, including eastern Asia, South Asia, Southeast Asia, the Middle East, northern Africa, southern Europe, and parts of South and Central America. The flavour varies in intensity and aroma with the different cooking methods. It is often paired with onion, tomato, or ginger. The parchment-like skin is much like the skin of an onion, and is typically removed before using in raw or cooked form. An alternative is to cut the top off the bulb, coat the cloves by dribbling olive oil (or other oil-based seasoning) over them, and roast them in an oven. Garlic softens and can be extracted from the cloves by squeezing the (root) end of the bulb, or individually by squeezing one end of the clove. In Korea, heads of garlic are fermented at high temperature; the resulting product, called black garlic, is sweet and syrupy, and is now being sold in the United States, United Kingdom and Australia.
Garlic may be applied to different kinds of bread to create a variety of classic dishes, such as garlic bread, garlic toast, bruschetta, crostini and canapé.
Oils can be flavored with garlic cloves. These infused oils are used to season all categories of vegetables, meats, breads and pasta.
In some cuisines, the young bulbs are pickled for three to six weeks in a mixture of sugar, salt, and spices. In eastern Europe, the shoots are pickled and eaten as an appetizer.
Immature scapes are tender and edible. They are also known as "garlic spears", "stems", or "tops". Scapes generally have a milder taste than the cloves. They are often used in stir frying or braised like asparagus. Garlic leaves are a popular vegetable in many parts of Asia. The leaves are cut, cleaned, and then stir-fried with eggs, meat, or vegetables.
Mixing garlic with egg yolks and olive oil produces aioli. Garlic, oil, and a chunky base produce skordalia. Blending garlic, almond, oil, and soaked bread produces ajoblanco.
Garlic powder has a different taste from fresh garlic. If used as a substitute for fresh garlic, 1/8 teaspoon of garlic powder is equivalent to one clove.
Location: Choose a sunny spot, it thrives in full sun if possible but it will be ok with some shade.
Make sure to give it well draining soil to prevent fungus and rot, if you have a raised garden bed it will thrive there since the drainage will be good.
Apply compost and aged manure to make a rich soil, mulch lightly after planting to help with soil moisture (weeds can also be deterred by a mulch layer). Before planting dig up the soil area really well (about 10″ deep) to provide a nice, loose soil environment.
How: Separate a bulb and select large, healthy cloves (the outer ones). Do not use any that are bruised or show signs of mold. Leave the paper on and plant them about 2″ deep (3″ to 4″ for colder climates) and 6″ to 8″ apart with rows 12″ apart.
Position each clove pointy side up and flat side down. In a harsh winter lay 4 to 6 inches of mulch on top when the ground freezes to provide some protection from winter kill, remove when Spring arrives.
Watering Conditions: Water deeply at least once a week. The soil should be consistently moist and not dry, but don’t let the garlic sit in water. A sign of overwatering is fungus growth or mold.
Garlic has a shallow root system so don’t let the soil dry out. If there is no moisture in the soil 1″ deep, it’s time to water.
Water well in the first few months then start easing off a couple weeks before harvest (when the top leaves start flopping over, that’s a sign to stop watering).
Location: Choose a sunny spot, it thrives in full sun if possible but it will be ok with some shade.
Make sure to give it well draining soil to prevent fungus and rot, if you have a raised garden bed it will thrive there since the drainage will be good.
Apply compost and aged manure to make a rich soil, mulch lightly after planting to help with soil moisture (weeds can also be deterred by a mulch layer). Before planting dig up the soil area really well (about 10″ deep) to provide a nice, loose soil environment.
How: Separate a bulb and select large, healthy cloves (the outer ones). Do not use any that are bruised or show signs of mold. Leave the paper on and plant them about 2″ deep (3″ to 4″ for colder climates) and 6″ to 8″ apart with rows 12″ apart.
Position each clove pointy side up and flat side down. In a harsh winter lay 4 to 6 inches of mulch on top when the ground freezes to provide some protection from winter kill, remove when Spring arrives.
Watering Conditions: Water deeply at least once a week. The soil should be consistently moist and not dry, but don’t let the garlic sit in water. A sign of overwatering is fungus growth or mold.
Garlic has a shallow root system so don’t let the soil dry out. If there is no moisture in the soil 1″ deep, it’s time to water.
Water well in the first few months then start easing off a couple weeks before harvest (when the top leaves start flopping over, that’s a sign to stop watering).
source |
The garlic plant's bulb is the most commonly used part of the plant. With the exception of the single clove types, garlic bulbs are normally divided into numerous fleshy sections called cloves. Garlic cloves are used for consumption (raw or cooked) or for medicinal purposes. They have a characteristic pungent, spicy flavor that mellows and sweetens considerably with cooking.
Other parts of the garlic plant are also edible. The leaves and flowers (bulbils) on the head (spathe) are sometimes eaten. They are milder in flavor than the bulbs, and are most often consumed while immature and still tender. Immature garlic is sometimes pulled, rather like a scallion, and sold as "green garlic". When green garlic is allowed to grow past the "scallion" stage, but not permitted to fully mature, it may produce a garlic "round", a bulb like a boiling onion, but not separated into cloves like a mature bulb. Additionally, the immature flower stalks (scapes) of the hardneck and elephant types are sometimes marketed for uses similar to asparagus in stir-fries.
Inedible or rarely eaten parts of the garlic plant include the "skin" and root cluster. The papery, protective layers of "skin" over various parts of the plant are generally discarded during preparation for most culinary uses, though in Korea immature whole heads are sometimes prepared with the tender skins intact. The root cluster attached to the basal plate of the bulb is the only part not typically considered palatable in any form.
Garlic may be applied to different kinds of bread to create a variety of classic dishes, such as garlic bread, garlic toast, bruschetta, crostini and canapé.
Oils can be flavored with garlic cloves. These infused oils are used to season all categories of vegetables, meats, breads and pasta.
source |
Immature scapes are tender and edible. They are also known as "garlic spears", "stems", or "tops". Scapes generally have a milder taste than the cloves. They are often used in stir frying or braised like asparagus. Garlic leaves are a popular vegetable in many parts of Asia. The leaves are cut, cleaned, and then stir-fried with eggs, meat, or vegetables.
Mixing garlic with egg yolks and olive oil produces aioli. Garlic, oil, and a chunky base produce skordalia. Blending garlic, almond, oil, and soaked bread produces ajoblanco.
Garlic powder has a different taste from fresh garlic. If used as a substitute for fresh garlic, 1/8 teaspoon of garlic powder is equivalent to one clove.
Make sure to give it well draining soil to prevent fungus and rot, if you have a raised garden bed it will thrive there since the drainage will be good.
Apply compost and aged manure to make a rich soil, mulch lightly after planting to help with soil moisture (weeds can also be deterred by a mulch layer). Before planting dig up the soil area really well (about 10″ deep) to provide a nice, loose soil environment.
How: Separate a bulb and select large, healthy cloves (the outer ones). Do not use any that are bruised or show signs of mold. Leave the paper on and plant them about 2″ deep (3″ to 4″ for colder climates) and 6″ to 8″ apart with rows 12″ apart.
Position each clove pointy side up and flat side down. In a harsh winter lay 4 to 6 inches of mulch on top when the ground freezes to provide some protection from winter kill, remove when Spring arrives.
Watering Conditions: Water deeply at least once a week. The soil should be consistently moist and not dry, but don’t let the garlic sit in water. A sign of overwatering is fungus growth or mold.
Garlic has a shallow root system so don’t let the soil dry out. If there is no moisture in the soil 1″ deep, it’s time to water.
Water well in the first few months then start easing off a couple weeks before harvest (when the top leaves start flopping over, that’s a sign to stop watering).
Location: Choose a sunny spot, it thrives in full sun if possible but it will be ok with some shade.
Make sure to give it well draining soil to prevent fungus and rot, if you have a raised garden bed it will thrive there since the drainage will be good.
Apply compost and aged manure to make a rich soil, mulch lightly after planting to help with soil moisture (weeds can also be deterred by a mulch layer). Before planting dig up the soil area really well (about 10″ deep) to provide a nice, loose soil environment.
How: Separate a bulb and select large, healthy cloves (the outer ones). Do not use any that are bruised or show signs of mold. Leave the paper on and plant them about 2″ deep (3″ to 4″ for colder climates) and 6″ to 8″ apart with rows 12″ apart.
Position each clove pointy side up and flat side down. In a harsh winter lay 4 to 6 inches of mulch on top when the ground freezes to provide some protection from winter kill, remove when Spring arrives.
Watering Conditions: Water deeply at least once a week. The soil should be consistently moist and not dry, but don’t let the garlic sit in water. A sign of overwatering is fungus growth or mold.
Garlic has a shallow root system so don’t let the soil dry out. If there is no moisture in the soil 1″ deep, it’s time to water.
Water well in the first few months then start easing off a couple weeks before harvest (when the top leaves start flopping over, that’s a sign to stop watering).
source |
Monday, 8 October 2012
Of Cabbages and Kales
Whilst I was thinking about what to write about the winding down of the gardening season - I had a wander round the 'net to see how Brassicas are represented in art - as you do - and found some wonderful paintings of Cabbages which I though I would share with you.
Green Cabbage - oil on linen by Jean Christofori Howton |
Watercolour painting of Three Red Cabbages by Marilyn Z. Kahn |
Ornamental Cabbage by Bonnie Haversat |
Now - down to business. As the vegetable garden is winding down the only crops, besides leeks and parsnips, are the brassicas. I have planted plenty to see me through the winter - Savoy cabbage, January King, Scarlet Kale, Cavolo Nero Kale (if you look at the first illustration - top right, you will see it is called Dinosaur Kale), and Purple Sprouting Broccoli. I have also just planted out Cauliflower and Spring Cabbage. I have to say that I love my greens. I know it isn't the same for everyone, children in particular, and although I love the summer crops - beans etc. In my book you just can't beat a good cabbage.
Savoy cabbage |
Scarlet Kale |
Although cabbage has an extensive history, it is difficult to trace its exact roots owing to the many varieties of leafy greens classified as "brassicas". The wild ancestor of cabbage was originally found in Britain and continental Europe. Nonheading cabbages and kale were probably the first to be domesticated, sometime before 1000 BC, and the Greeks and Romans had some variety of cabbage, although whether it was more closely related to today's cabbage or to one of the other Brassica crops is unknown.
Purple Sprouting Broccoli |
Cavolo Nero (Black) Kale |
The plot on Sunday - a foggy morning |
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)